Let’s try a little experiment. Stare into the closest mirror and look at the pores around your nose, chin, and general T-zone area. Do you see tiny, black-ish dots filling your pores? If you answered “no,” I’m jealous of you, bye. If you answered, “Yes,” I’m assuming you think those dots are blackheads. But what if I told those specks on your face aren’t actually blackheads but something called sebaceous filaments—a very natural and normal part of your skin that often gets mistaken for the blackheads you hate.
Welp, that’s exactly why I’m here today. And to help explain this phenomenon—since, surprise, you can’t just squeeze them and expect them to go away—I turned to dermatologist Rachel Nazarian, MD, of Schweiger Dermatology Group in NYC to give you the lowdown on blackheads versus sebaceous filaments and whether or not you can actually get rid of them.
Are sebaceous filaments normal?
Yup, totally normal. Here’s the gist: Your sebaceous glands create an oily liquid called sebum to lubricate the skin. Sebaceous filaments (aka sebum plugs) are collections of that oily liquid. Where you run into issues is when that sebum plug mixes with dead skin cells and bacteria and causes clogged pores, which make your otherwise small pores look larger.
Do sebaceous filaments turn into blackheads?
Bingo! That’s exactly what happens. “They are essentially the foundation of our blackheads, whiteheads, and even our painful cysts,” Nazarian says. “When the sebum is exposed to air and oxidizes, it turns black and is then considered a blackhead.”
What does a sebum plug look like?
It’s easy to tell if something is a blackhead because, well, it’s black. But what about sebaceous filaments? These can look like little black dots on the skin from a distance but go grab your magnifying mirror and you might find that those black dots aren’t actually black at all. On closer inspection, you’ll see that they're actually kinda clear or slightly yellow. Cute. Dr. Nazarian says, when squeezed out of the pore, they resemble a thin filament (hence the name).
Can you squeeze sebaceous filaments?
I mean, can you? Yes, *technically* you can squeeze them out. But should you? Definitely not. “I don’t recommend squeezing, because the tissue around the pores can be damaged with aggressive pressure and can lead to scarring,” Dr. Nazarian. Not only that, but excessive squeezing of your pores can actually stretch them out and make them permanently larger in the long run.
How do you get rid of sebaceous filaments?
Your skin needs a certain amount of sebum to stay healthy, so the goal is not to get rid of those sebaceous filaments completely (nor can you). Still, to prevent them from turning into actual breakouts, Dr. Nazarian recommends exfoliating with topical medications, such as glycolic acid, retinoids, and salicylic acid to break down the plugs and dissolve them. Eventually, your pores will refill, so like a game of Whack-a-Mole, those sebaceous filaments will pop right back up, requiring you to be consistent in your routine.
Just make sure *not* to overdo it. “If you overuse these treatments, the sebaceous gland activity can decrease too much, and skin can become too dry, so use sparingly,” she says. You hear that? Spar-ing-ly. Now go forth and try one of these products to reduce your sebaceous filaments.
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This article originally appeared on Cosmopolitan.com. Minor edits have been made by the Cosmo.ph editors.
