Skincare Ingredients: What To Try For Healthy Skin

The world of skincare constantly evolves. New trends and ingredients emerge and gain hype each year. However, what remains the same is the undying hunt for innovative products with effective ingredients that promise to nourish, hydrate, and rejuvenate the skin.

Skincare is more than just a routine; it's a form of self-care that allows busy individuals a bit of much-appreciated "me" time. But with so many new skincare items with new star ingredients constantly appearing on the shelves, choosing what to get can be overwhelming. Should you buy every single product to achieve the skin of your dreams?

Fortunately for your skin (and wallet), you don't have to. You have to know which skincare ingredients will best suit your needs.

RELATED: The Most Popular Skincare Ingredients To Look For In Beauty Products, From A-Z

Skincare Ingredients: Classifications

Skincare ingredients are substances or compounds that formulate various skincare products, such as toners, serums, face creams, and even makeup. These ingredients have various effects, such as moisturizing the skin, fighting acne, reducing signs of aging, and protecting the skin from environmental damage.

Some skincare ingredients target one or two specific skin concerns. A few superstars seem to do it all.

Lastly, some skincare ingredients are mild enough even for sensitive skin. In contrast, other ingredients can be harsh and must be slowly introduced at lower strengths.

Let’s look at some common skincare ingredients in popular skincare products.

Anti-Acne

Acne forms when sebum and dead skin cells plug up the pores. It can come in many forms, such as tiny white bumps, black-topped surface bumps, and inflamed lesions that are painful to touch. These painful lesions, particularly cystic acne, are caused by bacterial growth in the clogged pore.

Many anti-acne products include ingredients with antimicrobial properties to combat this type of acne. These include:

• Benzoyl Peroxide. A popular antibacterial agent that can also reduce inflammation. While effective, it can cause dryness and irritation for some skin types, so starting with lower concentrations and increasing as tolerated is recommended.
• Succinic Acid. A naturally occurring compound found in amber and many plant and animal tissues.
• Tea Tree Oil. An essential oil derived from the leaves of the Melaleuca alternifolia plant, known for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.

Anti-Aging

Anti-aging ingredients work by preventing the early signs of skin aging, such as the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and loss of firmness.

• Bakuchiol. Derived from the babchi plant. It’s a natural, less irritating alternative to retinol.
• Collagen. A protein abundant in the body, providing structure to the skin, bones, and connective tissues. Aging naturally causes the skin to lose collagen. Topical collagen is a controversial ingredient because its molecules are generally too large to penetrate deeply into the skin. It's best taken orally as supplements to be effective.
• Peptides. Short chains of amino acids signal the skin to produce more collagen, leading to firmer, more youthful-looking skin. Skincare products use different peptides, such as copper peptides and Argireline (acetyl hexapeptide-8), often called "Botox in a jar."
• Placenta. Animal placenta extracts are sometimes incorporated into skincare and haircare products for their supposed benefits, including promoting cell regeneration, increasing collagen production, and moisturizing. However, the use of placenta in cosmetics is controversial and subject to regulatory scrutiny.
• Pycnogenol. Extracted from pine tree bark from France. It's an antioxidant that improves skin hydration and elasticity and reduces signs of aging.

Antioxidants

Antioxidants protect the skin by neutralizing free radicals. These unstable atoms can damage cells, causing signs of aging and other skin issues.

• Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C). Vitamin C helps to neutralize free radicals, brighten the skin, and reduce signs of aging.
• Ascorbyl Glucoside. Another form of Vitamin C is made more stable with glucose. When absorbed into the skin, it breaks down into L-ascorbic acid, providing antioxidant protection, brightening the complexion, and stimulating collagen production.
• Astaxanthin. Derived from certain algae responsible for the pink or red color in salmon and shrimp. It offers protective benefits against UV damage and oxidative stress, helping to reduce signs of aging and improve skin elasticity.
• Ferulic Acid. Derived from certain fruits, grains, and vegetables. It stabilizes and enhances the efficacy of other antioxidants like vitamins C and E, offering photoprotection and reducing signs of aging.
• Sea Buckthorn Oil. This is extracted from the berries, leaves, and seeds of the sea buckthorn plant. This oil is rich in vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. It's renowned for its healing and rejuvenating effects on the skin, particularly in treating dryness, inflammation, and signs of aging.
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate. A stable vitamin C derivative that acts as a potent antioxidant. It helps to brighten skin, reduce signs of aging, and protect against damage from environmental stressors.

Barrier Repair

The skin acts like a wall that defends your body from threats. However, certain factors can cause damage to your skin barrier, resulting in acne, scaly or flaky skin, inflamed and sensitive areas, itchiness, skin infections, and discolored or rough patches.

Some factors that cause skin barrier damage are external. Exposure to too dry or humid environments, prolonged sun exposure, and over-exfoliation are a few. Genetics and stress can make you susceptible to damage.

A good way to repair your skin barrier is to simplify your skincare routine and incorporate products with these ingredients:

• Ceramides. Lipids that retain moisture and help form the skin's protective mantle. They are vital in keeping the skin hydrated and protected from environmental aggressors.
• Madecassoside. A compound extracted from the Centella Asiatica plant, known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties.
• Panthenol. Also known as provitamin B5. It also attracts moisture and helps retain hydration.

Cleaning Agents

These ingredients are often found in shampoos, soaps, and cleansers.

• Cocamidopropyl-Betaine. Surfactant derived from coconut oil. Surfactants help water to mix with oil and dirt so they can be rinsed away. Common in cleansers and shampoos.
• Sulfates. The most common forms are sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES). They are detergents found in many cleansers and shampoos. They're effective at removing oil and dirt but can dry or irritate sensitive skin and hair. Sulfate-free products are recommended for those with sensitive skin or dry hair types.

Exfoliants

Exfoliants are ingredients that help skin renewal. These ingredients help prevent and treat acne, pigmentation, fine lines, and wrinkles. Exfoliants can be chemical or physical.

AHAs

Acids in skincare usually come in the form of alpha hydroxy acid (AHA), beta- hydroxy acid (BHA), and polyhydroxy acid (PHA). While they're all exfoliants, they work differently on the skin.

AHAs are water-soluble chemical exfoliants. They work on the skin surface by breaking down the "glue" that binds skin cells. They eliminate dry, flaky skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

Most common AHAs:

• Citric Acid. Derived from citrus fruits. It's also used as a pH adjuster in cosmetic formulations.
• Glycolic Acid. Comes from sugarcane. Most often used in lightening or "brightening" skincare products.
• Lactic Acid. Derived from milk and fermented vegetables, although most commercial forms are synthetically produced.
• Malic Acid. Comes from apples. Malic acid is used in skincare for its exfoliating properties, helping to remove dead skin cells, reduce the appearance of fine lines, and improve skin texture.
• Mandelic Acid. Derived from bitter almonds. It's gentler than other AHAs due to its larger molecular size.

BHAs

BHAs, on the other hand, work under the surface. They're oil-soluble chemical exfoliants, which makes them better suited for people with oily skin. BHAs are great for unclogging pores and preventing blackheads and closed comedones.

Salicylic acid and its relatives (salicylate and sodium salicylate) are the most popular BHAs. In K-beauty, the BHA of choice is willow or willow bark extract.

PHAs

PHAs work a lot like AHAs but are gentler on the skin. Because PHAs exfoliate without stripping the skin and without irritating, they're better suited for those with sensitive skin. They also provide antioxidant benefits and strengthen the skin barrier. Two common PHAs you’ll find in skincare are lactobionic acid and gluconolactone.

Physical Exfoliators

Physical exfoliators are tiny abrasive ingredients that slough off dead skin cells when you manually scrub the skincare ingredient on your skin. The most common forms of physical exfoliators are sugar scrubs, finely milled rice, and wash-off clay masks made with bentonite or other volcanic clays.

Formula Enhancers

These ingredients give structure to a product. They add these ingredients to adjust the formula's texture, appearance, scent, and shelf life.

While most of these ingredients don't directly affect your skin, they provide a safe, stable, and effective vehicle for the active ingredients to penetrate your skin.

• Alcohol Denat. Short for denatured alcohol. Used in skincare and cosmetics as an astringent, solvent, or to enhance the product's texture. While effective in controlling oil and delivering ingredients, it can dry or irritate sensitive skin.
• Emulsifiers. Emulsifying agents are used with stabilizers in formulas that contain a mix of oil and water so the two won't separate. Cetearyl alcohol is an example of a common emulsifier.
• Fragrance. Some skincare products use aromatic essential oils to add fragrance. Most essential oils also have skin benefits, such as antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and skin-soothing effects. The most common essential oils are eucalyptus oil, lavender oil, and peppermint oil.
• Isopropyl Myristate. A synthetic oil that helps to improve the texture of products, making them feel less greasy and aiding in the absorption of other ingredients.
• Preservatives. Preservatives are added to extend a product's shelf life. These ingredients inhibit microbial growth. Some common preservatives include caprylyl glycol, parabens, and phenoxyethanol.
• Silicones. Silicones improve ingredient texture. This gives skincare products a silky feel. Silicones can also form a barrier that resists water, making them a common ingredient in hair conditioners, makeup products, and deodorants. Cyclopentasiloxane is a common example.
• Solvents. Solvents help disperse or dissolve other ingredients to make the final product feel smooth on application. Common examples include isododecane, isoparaffin, propanediol, and propylene glycol.
• Stabilizers. Stabilizers are used with emulsifiers in formulas with oil and water so the two won't separate. Examples of stabilizers commonly found in skincare include carbomers, magnesium aluminum silicate, stearic acid, stearyl alcohol, and xantham gum.
• Triethanolamine. Used to adjust the pH of cosmetics and skincare products, making them more compatible with the skin's natural pH. However, it can irritate some, especially those with sensitive skin.

Hydrators

Hydrators are skincare ingredients that bring back moisture to the skin. The skin normally loses water from sweating, exposure to a dry environment, and a damaged skin barrier.

The most common type of hydrators in skincare are humectants. They attract water from the air and the deeper layers of skin to the outer layer of skin, providing hydration.

• Glycerin. Also known as glycerol. It's a gentle humectant that's suitable for all skin types. It can be derived from either animal fats or vegetable oils.
• Hyaluronic Acid. A powerful humectant commonly found in Asian skincare, particularly Japanese products.
• Polyglutamic Acid. Derived from fermented soybeans. This acid is known for holding multiple times its weight in water.
• Sodium Hyaluronate. The salt form derivative of hyaluronic acid.

Moisturizers

If hydrators replenish water in the skin, moisturizers help lock all that hydration in. Though many moisturizers can be categorized as emollients or occlusive.

RELATED: Is There A Difference Between 'Moisturizing' And 'Hydrating' Products?

Emollients

Emollients are moisturizing treatments that soothe and hydrate the skin, making it soft and flexible by reducing water loss. They are found in various skincare products, such as lotions, creams, and ointments. They are especially beneficial for treating dry, rough, and flaky skin conditions.

A few examples of the most common examples of emollients include:

• Capric Triglyceride. A derivative of coconut oil with glycerin. It helps to moisturize the skin without leaving a greasy residue, making it ideal for all skin types.
• Cocoa Butter. Extracted from cocoa beans.
• Jojoba Oil. Extracted from the seed of the jojoba plant, it closely mimics the skin's natural oils, making it an effective moisturizer. It's known for balancing oil production, making it beneficial for dry and oily skin types.
• Shea Butter. Derived from its tree’s seeds.
• Squalane. A hydrocarbon derived from squalene (a natural substance made by our skin cells), hydrogenated to be stable and non-oxidative. Squalane is also a natural antioxidant.

Occlusives

Occlusives are skincare ingredients that form a thin physical barrier or film that traps moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss. Some common occlusives include:

• Dimethicone. A type of silicone that acts as a skin protectant and conditioner. It provides a silky, smooth texture to skincare products, helps fill fine lines and wrinkles, and forms a protective barrier on the skin that locks in moisture.
• Lanolin. A natural skincare ingredient derived from sheep's wool. It’s a powerful moisturizer, but some individuals may be allergic or sensitive to it.
• Oils. Facial oils can be emollients, occlusives, or both, depending on their weight. Lighter oils like sunflower and marula are more emollient than occlusive. In comparison, richer and heavier oils like argan, avocado, bio oil, camellia, coconut, mineral oil, and olive oil are better occlusives.
• Petroleum Jelly. Also known as petrolatum. It has been popular in recent years due to "slugging," or the application of petroleum jelly as an overnight mask. It is best used sparingly on the face, especially for those with acne-prone or oily skin, as it can clog pores.

Multifunctional Actives

Most skincare ingredients have more than one benefit. However, these goodie ingredients are superstars because they help with almost all skin problems.

• Azelaic Acid. A dicarboxylic acid that is used to treat mild to moderate acne by killing bacteria, reducing inflammation, and helping to unclog pores. It also reduces pigmentation, effectively treating post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.
• Honey. A natural humectant and antibacterial agent. Honey can moisturize, soothe, and heal the skin. Its antioxidant properties also make it effective in combating inflammation and promoting healthy skin renewal.
• Niacinamide (Vitamin B3). A versatile ingredient that strengthens the skin's barrier, reduces inflammation, controls sebum, minimizes the appearance of pores, and brightens the skin.
• Propolis. A resinous substance collected by bees. It has antibacterial and antifungal properties. It also helps soothe inflamed skin and accelerate wound healing.
• Retinoids. An entire class of vitamin A derivatives. They are potent antioxidants that promote faster cell turnover and collagen production. They also unclog pores and prevent uneven skin tone, fine lines, and wrinkles. Retinoids vary in strength and may require a prescription. Common derivatives include retinol, retinaldehyde, retinyl palmitate, and tretinoin (Retin-A).

Skin brightening

Skin-brightening ingredients target pigmentation caused by acne scars and sun exposure. Pigmentation from acne comes in two forms: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and post-inflammatory erythema (PIE).

PIH are the dark red or brown spots that appear after acne breakouts. On the other hand, PIE is the redness that appears when you squeeze your pimples (even though you know you shouldn't) because of broken blood vessels.

Skin-brightening ingredients typically target either PIH or PIE, while hyperpigmentation from sun exposure is best prevented using sunscreen.

• Arbutin. Derived from bearberry plants and is a safer alternative to hydroquinone. Great for fading PIH.
• Hydroquinone. Considered as the gold standard of skin-brightening ingredients. It's an effective treatment for age spots, melasma, and other forms of discoloration. However, hydroquinone should be used under the guidance of a dermatologist, as overuse can cause irritation and undesired skin darkening.
• Kojic Acid. A byproduct of Aspergillus and Penicillium fungi fermentation. It inhibits melanin production, helping to fade hyperpigmentation, sun damage, and age spots.
• Licorice Extract. Derived from the root of the Glycyrrhiza glabra plant, licorice extract contains compounds with skin-soothing and anti-inflammatory properties. It's used in skincare to brighten the skin, reduce redness, and diminish dark spots. Best for PIE.
• Tranexamic Acid. A synthetic derivative of the amino acid lysine, known for its ability to brighten the skin and reduce the appearance of discoloration and hyperpigmentation.

Skin-Soothing

Skin-soothing ingredients help calm redness and irritation caused by inflammation, skin barrier damage, and the use of actives such as exfoliants and tretinoin.

• Allantoin. Often derived from plants. Allantoin can also help heal minor wounds and stimulate new tissue growth.
• Aloe Vera. Widely known for its soothing, hydrating, and anti-inflammatory properties. It's often used to treat sunburns, minor burns, and skin irritation. Aloe Vera contains antioxidants, enzymes, and vitamins A and C, which can help repair and soothe the skin. It's suitable for all skin types, even dry, sensitive, and irritated skin.
• Baobab. Extracted from the fruit of the Baobab tree and is rich in antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals. It’s a popular skin-soothing and wound-healing ingredient in K-beauty.
• Beta Glucan. A polysaccharide derived from oats and yeast. It helps reduce redness and sensitivity and strengthens the skin's natural barrier.
• Colloidal Oatmeal. Suitable even for sensitive or irritated skin. It’s often added to products designed for managing eczema.

Sun Damage Protection

These are ingredients that protect the skin from harmful UV rays. It is commonly found in sunscreens and makeup products with SPF (Sun Protection Factor).

Sunscreens can be formulated with chemical filters, mineral filters, or a combination of both.

• Homosalate. A chemical compound that absorbs UVB rays.
• Octinoxate. A chemical UV filter commonly used in sunscreens for its ability to protect the skin from UVB rays.
• Octocrylene. A chemical compound that absorbs UVB and short UVA rays. Octocrylene is also known for its moisturizing benefits and ability to stabilize other sunscreen ingredients.
• Oxybenzone. A chemical sunscreen agent that absorbs UV rays. However, its potential effects on coral reefs and human health have led to increased scrutiny and regulation in some regions.
• Titanium Dioxide. an inert earth mineral that can protect against UVA and UVB. Titanium dioxide is considered low risk for skin sensitivity. Because mineral filters refract light, mineral sunscreens often produce a white cast.
• Zinc Oxide. A mineral sunscreen ingredient that forms a thin layer over the skin and reflects UVA and UVB. The white cast caused by zinc oxide is less prominent than sunscreens with titanium dioxide.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use products with different active ingredients together?

It's important to be cautious when mixing active ingredients. Some combinations can irritate the skin. Always do a patch test and consult with a dermatologist if unsure.

How often should I change my skincare routine?

Listen to your skin. If your current routine works well, there's no need for change. However, adjusting your routine can be beneficial as seasons change or if your skin's needs evolve.

Are natural ingredients always better?

Not necessarily. While natural ingredients can be effective and less irritating for some, the formulation and concentration determine a product's efficacy.

How long should I wait to see results from a new skincare ingredient?

It takes four to 12 weeks to see noticeable results, depending on the ingredient and your skin type.

Can I use exfoliating acids every day?

Daily use depends on the type of acid and its concentration. It's generally recommended to start slow and gradually increase usage as your skin adapts.